Washington State Wine: From Seed to Sauvignon

Lore has it that the seeds that grew into Washington state’s first grapevines came over from England in someone’s pocket.

In 1825, George Simpson, the governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s outpost at Fort Vancouver found long-forgotten grape seeds he’d brought with him from London, tucked away in a napkin in the pocket of his waistcoat. Mr. Simpson had those seeds planted, kicking off the state’s 200-year-old love affair with what would become one of its most profitable crops.

Those early grapes were most likely table grapes good for juice and jam. It wasn’t until an influx of Italian immigrants to Walla Walla in the 1860s–70s that the Cinsault or Black Prince wine grape arrived on the scene. Among those early Italian immigrant families who established small vineyards during that time is a name you might recognize: Leonetti.

Large-scale irrigation of the area in the early 1900s fostered an explosion of agriculture, and in 1914, the lawyer William B. Bridgman began planting grapes for commercial purposes near Yakima. Just a few short years later, in 1917, Prohibition snuffed out plans to make anything but juice out of those grapes.

The year 1933 saw the end of Prohibition, and soon after, a real estate agent named Charles Somers registered St. Charles, the state’s first commercial winery on Stretch Island, about 17 miles northeast of Shelton, in Mason County, where the grape growing was good.

Fruity and fortified wines made by the progenitor of Chateau Ste. Michelle (and others) ruled the fledgling industry until the mid-20th century, when a group of Washington State University professors, led by Dr. Walter J. Clore (known as the father of Washington wine), turned their penchant for home winemaking into a commercial venture. They named themselves Associated Vintners, once known as Columbia Winery.

The trend in Washington wine made its way from sweet to dry during the 1960s and ’70s. In 1974 the nation took notice when a white Riesling from Chateau Ste. Michelle won first place in a blind taste test sponsored by the LA Times. In the early ’80s, Gary Figgins, a grandson of the Leonettis, produced a 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon so delicious it was proclaimed the Best of the Best in a competition against established California wineries.

What followed was decades of expansion resulting in more than 1,050 wineries, 21 AVAs, 80 varietals and 17 million cases of wine, which generates $9.5 billion a year. Look how far those little smuggled seeds have come.

Quick Pickled Fiddlehead Ferns

A delicacy available for only a few weeks in early spring, fiddleheads are the coiled new growth of the ostrich fern. They taste like a cross between asparagus and green beans and can be cooked similarly as well. When pickled, they retain their lovely verdant color and crunchy bite. Serve these on a charcuterie board or anywhere a little bit of acid is called for.

ingredients
For blanching:
2 gallons water
1 cup salt
2 pounds Fiddlehead ferns

For pickling liquid:
2 cups rice vinegar
4 cups water
6 garlic cloves, crushed
2–3 sprigs of dill or tarragon
1 lemon, zested

INSTRUCTIONS
-In a large pot, bring the water and salt to a rolling boil.
-Add the ferns and blanch for one minute.
-Remove the ferns with a slotted spoon (or sieve) and cool.
-Then place the ferns in a heatproof glass container with a lid.
-Combine all the ingredients for the pickling liquid in a pan and bring to a boil.
-Pour the pickling liquid over the ferns.
-Allow to cool thoroughly uncovered, then cover and store in the fridge, where they will keep for a month. 

PAIR WITH: 2024 Pursued Rosé, a Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre blend from Guardian Cellars.

Nettle Soup  | Makes 4 servings

Once found only when foraged in the wild, fresh nettles now make an appearance at farmers’ markets starting in early spring. They have a distinctive earthy, grassy and slightly salty flavor—like spinach, but punchier.
Wear gloves when handling fresh nettles, which still have their stingers. They are harmless when cooked.

ingredients
3 tablespoons butter or olive oil
2 cups Russet potato, peeled and diced
2 cups leeks, white part only, diced
1 cup yellow onion, diced
1 cup celery, diced
Salt and pepper
4 cups chicken stock
8 ounces fresh nettles (spinach or watercress also work)
½ cup cream

For garnish (optional)
A dollop of crème fraiche
Fresh dill to taste

INSTRUCTIONS
-Heat the butter or oil in a pot over medium heat. Add all the vegetables except for the nettles.
-Season with salt and cook until the veggies soften and begin releasing their liquid.
-Add the chicken stock and cook until the potatoes are tender.
-Remove the pot from the heat, add the nettles and puree until smooth.
-Add the cream and check seasoning.
-Reheat and garnish, if you like.

Pair with: 2023 Feral Sauvignon Blanc from Efeste.

Lamb Osso Buco | Serves 4

Osso buco is a lovely, stew-like dish originating in the Lombardy region of Italy. While it’s usually made with veal, substituting lamb results in an equally tender bite with an ode to spring. Serve with risotto, mashed potatoes or maybe just a baguette to sop up all the goodness.

INGREDIENTS
2½–3 pounds osso buco
(from lamb shank)
Salt and pepper
1–2 tablespoons olive oil
5 sprigs of fresh rosemary
½ garlic bulb, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 onion, chopped
½ bottle Cabernet Sauvignon
(We recommend the Long Shadows 2021 Feather Cabernet Sauvignon)
4 cups beef stock

INSTRUCTIONS
-Preheat the oven to 275° F.
-Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Add the oil to a pan over medium-high heat and sear the lamb on all sides.
-Add the seared lamb, 4 sprigs of rosemary, the garlic, carrots, celery, onions, red wine and beef stock to a roasting pan.
-Cover and slow roast for 2½ hours, or until the meat is fork-tender.
-Cool the lamb in the braising liquid, then remove it.
-Using a fat separator, defat the braising liquid (or put the liquid in the fridge overnight and skim the fat off the surface the next day).
-Reduce the liquid to a sauce by boiling it to the desired consistency.
-Pour the sauce over the lamb and serve. 

PAIR WITH: 2020 Saggi, a Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend from Long Shadows.